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Dripping faucet: what's actually wrong and when it's DIY

A drip a second wastes ~3,000 gallons a year and is almost always a worn cartridge, washer, or O-ring — a $10–$25 part. Compression faucets are beginner-friendly DIY; cartridge faucets need the right replacement part. If the faucet is corroded into place, stop prying.

What to do, in order

  1. Shut the angle stops under the sink (test by opening the faucet). Plug the drain so nothing small escapes.
  2. Note your faucet type: two handles = compression or cartridge; single lever = cartridge or ball. Brand and model (under the spout or on the paperwork) get you the exact kit.
  3. Disassemble in order on a towel: handle cap, screw, handle, trim, retaining nut, cartridge. Photos each step.
  4. Take the cartridge to the hardware store — matching in person beats guessing part numbers.
  5. Reassemble with a food-grade silicone grease on O-rings; never wrap the threads with tape.
  6. Slow-turn the shutoffs back on and check for leaks at the base over the next hour.

Red flags — stop and call a pro

  • Drip continues after replacing the cartridge — seat is pitted; time for a faucet swap
  • Water leaking under the sink during the repair — supply line or angle stop failing
  • Corroded shutoff valves that won't close — a bigger job; don't force them
  • Wall-mounted or widespread antique faucets — parts may be discontinued

Prevention

Don't crank handles closed — a firm stop is enough; overtightening grinds washers flat. Replace faucet internals at the first persistent drip, before hard water scale welds parts together.

This guide is maintained by the ee.ltd editorial team — reviewed for 2026. Browse all home repair guides or compare plumbing costs.

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