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AC running but not cooling: 6 checks before you call
Warm air from a running AC is usually airflow (filter/coils) or refrigerant. Filters and breakers are free to check; low refrigerant always means a leak and needs a licensed tech.
What to do, in order
- Check the filter — a clogged filter starves the system. Replace if you can't see light through it. This fixes a surprising share of 'not cooling' calls.
- Confirm the outdoor unit is running. If the fan's dead: check the breaker, then the disconnect box by the unit.
- Feel the big copper line at the outdoor unit: cold and sweaty is good; warm means refrigerant issues or a compressor problem.
- Ice on the indoor coil or copper lines: turn the system to FAN-ONLY and let it thaw completely (hours), with a fresh filter in. Restart in cooling — if it ices again, low charge or airflow, tech time.
- Check thermostat settings: COOL mode (not FAN), set point well below current temp. A dying thermostat lies.
- Close enough supply registers? Blocked returns choke the loop — keep returns unobstructed.
Red flags — stop and call a pro
- Burning smell or buzzing from the outdoor unit — capacitor/compressor failing; running it makes damage worse, shut it off
- Ice + warm house after one thaw cycle — refrigerant leak; continued running can slug the compressor ($1,500+ mistake)
- No air at all from vents with the blower running — duct collapse or blower failure
Prevention
Filters every 60–90 days (30 with pets), annual spring tune-up, and keep the outdoor unit's fins clear of lint and shrubbery by 2 feet.
This guide is maintained by the ee.ltd editorial team — reviewed for 2026. Browse all home repair guides or compare hvac costs.
Related guides
- Furnace short cycling (starts and stops every few minutes)
- AC evaporator coil frozen: why it happens and the thaw protocol
- Thermostat not working: dead screen, wrong temps, no response
- AC won't turn on: what to check before you call
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